For most of their tenure in southwestern Colorado, the Pueblo
Indians lived in scattered villages along the tops of the tops of
the area's mesas. During the last 100 years of their residence at
Mesa Verde, they began to
live in cliff dwellings eked out of caves or naturally eroded platforms
on the sides of the mesas. The cliff dwellings, which are the main
reason to visit Mesa Verde, include some of the finest to be found in
the United States. In addition, the southwest of Colorado is another of
the state’s remarkable scenic areas and worth seeing for its unique and
colorful landscapes.
Although the Park’s villages are interesting, it is the cliff dwellings
that attract the attention of most visitors. The dwellings at Mesa Verde
were re-discovered by local
ranchers in the late 19th century and the park was established in 1906. Covering 52,000 acres (21,000 hectares), the park protects 4,500
archeological sites including over 600 cliff dwellings. Only a small
number of the sites are open to the public.
The cliff dwellings are
wedged into opening in the sides of the local mesas and closely blend with the coloring and geometry of the
local rocks (mostly sandstones). Visiting Mesa Verde feels like entering
someone else’s home when they are away on vacation and you have been
asked to mind the cats. Many of the dwelling are well-preserved and
looking at them from the cliffs, you almost expect to see a native Pueblan
emerging and going about their day’s business.
The views
of the surrounding countryside can be impressive, especially the vista
from Wetherill Mesa that includes the adjacent Montezuma Valley. Although we generally
hope rain will not intrude on our vacation, the sunsets on rainy days in
Mesa Verde as about as spectacular as you can find anywhere in the
Southwest.
The park itself is not as scenic as those of the Colorado Plateau to the
west (Bryce, Zion, and the Grand Canyon), but it has its charms,
although most of these have to do with its amazing archeological sites.
The
entrance fee to the park is $15 for private vehicles and $8 for
motorcycles, bicycles and pedestrians for the summer months.
During the remainder of the year the entrance fee is discounted.
Admission is for 7 days.
Although the
park is open year round,
not all of the dwellings can be toured in every season. See National Park Service website on
Mesa Verde
for more details on visiting.
If your time at Mesa Verde National Park is limited, head for Chapin
Mesa where you can explore the Cliff Palace (Mesa Verde’s largest cliff
dwelling), the Balcony House and Spruce Tree House (these attractions
are not covered by the entrance fee and you will need to purchase tickets to visit these attractions).
Long house on Weatherill Mesa (open from Memorial Day (last Monday of May) to Labor day (first Monday in September) is also an interesting
tour, so consider it, if you have not yet exhausted your interest in
cliff dwellings by this point in your stay. You may also want to see the Chapin Mesa Archeological museum and Far View Sites Complex,
comprised of five mesa-top villages and the Far View Reservoir.
Many of the paths to the cliff dwellings are strenuous activities and some require climbing ladders for access. Remember, the park is located at 7,000 feet
elevation and acclimating yourself to the “thin” air is a good idea. Those with high blood pressure, asthma, heart condition or other illnesses should discuss visiting this type of environment with their
physician prior to departure.
The Morefield Campground with 435 sites is just four miles inside of
the Park. See this section of the Mesa Verde website for more
details. In addition, you can "base camp" - that is have
your tent and other equipment provided by Aramark (the company
responsible for lodging and other services at the park). See this
link for details on "base camping".
The
best time of year to visit Mesa Verde National Park is from the end of
May to the end of October (although the weather is often cold, wet and
sometimes sleety during October and November). Snowstorms can
occur as late as May and as early as October, so many consider the
Park's sweet spot to be June and July. The summer months are
usually warm, sometimes hot, but almost always with cool evenings.
Expect it to be cool around sunrise in the summer and be prepared for
cool weather,
especially if you are camping. Thunderstorms are common in August,
but make for excellent sunsets and great photography.
The closest major airport is in Albuquerque, New Mexico (approximately 200
miles south).
If you don't want to camp, we highly recommend staying at the
Far View Lodge , which also within the Park. Located
near the Visitor Center, many of its rooms have gorgeous views.
The Lodge is open only from late April to mid to late October.
Lodging can be found in the nearby towns of Mancos (23 miles) and the
larger Cortez, Colorado (25 miles).
Durango,
an old mining town, is also a great place to stay, but it's a longer
drive at approximately 50 miles. However, it is here that you can
catch the narrow gauge
Durango-Silverton
Railroad which chugs its way along the beautiful gorge of the Las Animas River
in a scenic train ride that is well worth your time.
If you prefer to head west, you might want to explore unforgettable
Arches National Park near Moab, Utah (139 miles).
If you head south to New Mexico, consider a route that will take you
towards the town of Shiprock (57 miles). About 12 miles south of
town on Highway 491 you will see Shiprock, a volcanic neck (lava
solidified in the throat of a volcano and then revealed by erosion) that
looms across the desert looking like an abandoned sailing ship. It
is quite spectacular, but may appeal only to those of you who love
unique landforms.
By the way, Highway 491 was formerly Highway 666, which was part of
the fun of driving it. For a time, the road was known at the
"Highway from Hell". Unfortunately, the transportation department
spent a fortune on road signs, as they , apparently, were stolen for souvenirs,
almost as fast as they could be erected.
Originally the road ran from Gallup, New Mexico to Cortez, Colorado
although it was later extended to reach Monticello, Utah and
Douglas, Arizona.
If you take the Shiprock route, continue south to tour the
Petrified Forest National Park (170 miles from Shiprock) and
then west to see the
Grand Canyon National Park.
If
you prefer, you can head directly to the Grand Canyon National Park from
Mesa Verde through Tuba City in a 291 mile drive that takes you through
the scenic Four Corners Country. Many travelers are attracted to
the Four Corners monument, which is the only place in the United States
where four states join. (Although a popular folktale is that this monument is mislocated
by almost two miles due to a surveying error in the past. this is
simply not true). In addition, to the west is Monument Valley along
highway 163 in northern Arizona and southern Utah. Although this may
sound somewhat irreverent, many of you will know this area as the
home of Wile Coyote from the Road Runner cartoons.
